Chemical peels are performed by many Beauty Therapists and Doctors. At Bushland Beauty, I don’t believe in them. To me they are treating a symptom and not a cause. Therefore, in my eyes they are not holistic, and therefore don’t fit with my philosophy on skin.
The idea that removing skin cells fixes a problem is to me faulty thinking. The keratinocytes are the king of cellular communication. This little cell decides whether to mount an immune response, whether to dilate your capillaries and whether to generate repair.
Rather than removing them I believe your keratinocyte should remain until it naturally falls off. There isn’t any really any good reason to peel.
The reasons usually used are:
1) Acne is inflammatory. Originally it was thought to be from hyper-proliferation of cells (which it has that feature), however newer research shows it actually begins with inflammation and that is the trigger for the overproduction of cells. You extinguish the inflammation you get rid of the over production of cells. The bonus is that it doesn’t create sun sensitivity or increased sensitivity which tends to happen with the use of acids.
2) Pigmentation occurs because the pigment is transferred to the keratinocytes, so the idea is to remove them which removes the pigment. Instead if you stop the transfer of pigment you eliminate the pigmentation. There are also ways of stopping the pigment being deposited in the first place.
3) Ageing isn’t from dead skin cells and whilst it may stimulate the production of collagen by peeling it also creates inflammation. My philosophy is why peel when you can generate quicker and faster results without peeling and the process is holistic.
If you look at number 2 and 3 you will see it breaches the basal cell. Whilst your skin may look good at the time you will look worse in about 10-15 years time. The entire epidermis has been destroyed and will struggle to renew itself. This means your skin will start sagging.
It is for this reason that I am against peeling the skin. We treat acne from the first step. Peeling only treats from the second step.
When you have something wrong with your skin it is frustrating and overwhelming at times.
There is a lot of conflicting information out there that can cause you even more confusion. As one Aesthetician put it, all anyone needs is a mobile phone and a YouTube channel and they call themselves an expert.
One of my missions is to stop the confusion. To provide a harbour of safety where you know you will get honest advice from a professional.
What separates me apart from other salons is my care in looking after you. I want to ensure you achieve the skin of your dreams.
It is my mission is to show you step by step how to get there and to be there with you along the way in your skin journey. To encourage you when it is hard, and to celebrate with you when you get the results you have been looking for.
For all of you who share your struggles and success stories, I thank you. It is difficult for me to articulate how much joy and inspiration it fills me with.
If you're feeling hopeless and lost with your skin please let me know. I would truly love to help you.
Many consumers understandably choose to use titanium dioxide and zinc oxide as their preference for sunscreen filters.
Titanium dioxide or zinc oxide have been used for many years in combination with chemical sunscreens to enhance protection level in the longer UVA range (370 nm). Unlike chemical sunscreens, titanium dioxide and zinc oxide work by reflecting and diffusing UVR. Titanium dioxide and zinc oxide are hard to disperse and also leave the skin looking white on the skin, which is very undesirable. As a consequence of this the minerals were ground into a finer particle size and micronized.
Micronized Zinc Oxide and Titanium dioxide are the types used when the sunscreen does not leave the skin white and it is almost transparent. Micronized zinc and titanium undergo a chemical surface treatment to stop them clumping. What is not well known however is that the process of micronization leads to changes in the sun protective properties of titanium dioxide. The smallest particle shifts its protection from the longer UVA towards the UBV range.
Exfoliating our skin can become an addiction. Your skin feels so much smoother and softer after you exfoliate, because of this many people think that if a little is good then a lot of exfoliation must be better. Over exfoliation however can cause some serious damage to your skin and can predispose you to premature aging and also to developing an overly sensitive and reactive skin.
The signs that you are giving your skin too much exfoliation:
- areas of patchiness and dryness
- redness and itchiness
- increased sensitivity
- inflammatory acne
- burning sensation
Acne skins are one of the skins that definitely need exfoliation more often. It does however need to be gentle. The worst thing you can do for an acne skin is dry it out and dehydrate it. Dehydration will make lesions hang around for longer and delay healing.
Enzymes don’t harm the skin and will not eat living cells. Chemical Peels on the other hand can damage your skin barrier. Peels over 8% will actually disrupt your skin barrier making it more sensitive and heal less effectively. The exception to this is Salicylic Acid Peels which are safe.
Peels also create inflammation in the skin which we want to avoid. Inflammation in an acneic skin makes it worse and in older skin creates a condition called “Inflamm-ageing”. It is aging of the skin due to inflammation and the effects it has on collagen and elastin. Facial cleansing brushes can damage the skin as well due to manual exfoliation which can harm living cells.
We recommend using our Papaya Radiance Peel and Sulfur Mask for exfoliating. These both contain enzymes which will not harm your skin.
If you think you don't need a neck cream till your 30's you may need to think again.
We have a generation of people who are going to look older than their parents possibly with neck lines.
Why is this??? It's because of electronic devices. Children as young as 2 are using them.
Their head is in a position that creases the skin constantly. It's actually a phenomenon that is occurring and there has been scientific literature in reference to it.
There are many that use oils in place of a moisturiser. Is this really the best thing for your skin?
The most common oils used are Rosehip and Coconut Oil. Those that replace their moisturiser with oils have a skin barrier that is majorly impaired which ages them rapidly. Many wonder how this is the case when the oils have so many benefits.
It comes down to the fact that our skin requires the following three things in balance to maintain our skin barrier.
1. Fatty Acids
Vegetable oils only contain one of these.....Fatty Acids. They do not contain Cholesterol or Ceramides. By just using oil you stop the skin barrier from repairing and your skin will develop a low grade of inflammation which is basically cooking your collagen and elastin making you age faster. By the time those pesky wrinkles have begun to emerge the ageing process has already started and simply adding oil will in fact make it worse.
Hyaluronic Acid keeps skin moist and elastic while hydrating the skin and smoothing out fine lines. It holds 1000 times it’s own weight in water. Hyaluronic Acid production in the skin reduces as we age, resulting in loss of elasticity which develops as wrinkles. It plays an important role in tissue regeneration and prevention of scarring.
Not all Hyaluronic Acid is created equally.
Peptides are short chains of amino acid sequences. They have the ability to trigger cellular processes that stimulate collagen production.
Peptides evolved from research into wound healing and studies on growth stimulation from human skin fibroblasts. Wound healing studies on human keratinocytes cultures showed a stimulatory effect from topical application of peptides.
There are four types of peptides.
1. Signal Peptides
2. Neurotransmitter-inhibitor Peptides
3. Enzyme Inhibitor Peptides
4. Carrier Peptides
Peptides have been proven to be more effective than the gold standard prescription Vitamin A in the treatment of photoageing.
If you are performing microneedling on yourself you can actually cause scarring.
Like many devices that where only sold under the supervision of licensed Aesthetician's, skin needling devices can now be purchased through Amazon and eBay.
Consumers are using devices that are 0.5mm and above which are meant to be only used under the guidance of a Doctor or professional Aesthetician. Many think there is no harm but this is far from the truth.
The danger is that you are poking holes in your skin and the products you are using afterwards contain ingredients that will generate an inflammatory response and possibly cause scarring.
Needling should always be under the guidance of an Aesthetician or Doctor. Your home use and product selection should also be under their guidance so you don't end up with granulomas and the lumpiness in your skin that will happen as a result of the granulomas forming.
You can't just use any product afterwards. It needs to meet criteria with ingredients. So the next time you think of performing home needling with a cheap device question if it is worth it.
Needling can get some fantastic results but it needs to be carefully monitored to minimise complications.
If a young skin uses a single lipid cream it will delay the skin from healing. However if an older skin uses a cream with just cholesterol it will accelerate the skin barrier recovery.
This is why what worked for you when you were younger doesn't work when you are older.
Katie Tilson is a fully qualified Beauty Therapist passionate about skin health and dedicated to ongoing training and education to ensure you receive superior skin treatments.