There are many oils that contain over 25% oleic acid. These oils disrupt the skin barrier by causing moisture loss which results in flaking, an overproduction of skin cells. This may not be seen to the naked eye.
The moisture loss causes a temporary swelling of the surface which makes you feel like you are hydrated. Continued use will degrade the skin barrier. If you were to be measured with a technical device accurately measuring hydration, it would show the skin is losing moisture and the feeling is only superficial.
In an acne skin these oils will result in breakouts. If there are too many skin cells it will clog the follicle. Acne skin cells are different to a normal skin. Their skin comes off in sheets rather than grains of sand which blocks the follicles.
Common oils that contain over 25% oleic acid are Olive Oil, Macadamia Oil, Almond Oil, Apricot Oil, Avocado Oil, Marula Oil and Argan Oil.
There are 3 key ingredients that need to be in a cream to effectively repair the skin barrier. Ceramides, Cholesterol and Fatty Acids. Not only does it need all of these but they also need to be in the right proportions, being a 1:1:3 ratio.
So why does the skin of an eczema sufferer have so much trouble repairing itself?
Well it all comes down to genetics. Eczema sufferers have a mutation in the gene called Filaggrin. Filaggrin provides moisture and is an essential component of restoring the skin barrier. Eczema sufferers only have one copy of this gene, instead of two.
Dr Su (Royal Children’s Hospital – Melbourne) was involved with ground breaking research on eczema. Dr Su discovered that a defective skin barrier was the primary cause of eczema. Eczema sufferers have tiny cracks in the skin barrier that predisposes some people to eczema, allowing irritants to penetrate and set off an inflammatory cascade.
People prone to eczema have a much thinner skin barrier than people with normal skin and this can be seen under a microscope, even if they do not have obvious eczema lesions. This is why daily application of a moisturiser containing the 3 key ingredients is vital, because genetically eczema sufferers don’t have a normal skin.
Our Calm Protect Revive or Rescue Balm is the perfect cream for treating eczema.
Did you know that the pimples popping up on your skin today actually began to form approximately 90 days ago?
It takes about 90 days for a pimple to form. It starts as a microcomedones in the pore and can take 3 different paths: a whitehead, a blackhead or a pustule, depending upon the presence of bacteria and inflammation.
Hyaluronic Acid keeps skin moist and elastic while hydrating the skin and smoothing out fine lines. It holds 1000 times it’s own weight in water. Hyaluronic Acid production in the skin reduces as we age, resulting in loss of elasticity which develops as wrinkles. It plays an important role in tissue regeneration and prevention of scarring.
Not all Hyaluronic Acid is created equally.
Peptides are short chains of amino acid sequences. They have the ability to trigger cellular processes that stimulate collagen production.
Peptides evolved from research into wound healing and studies on growth stimulation from human skin fibroblasts. Wound healing studies on human keratinocytes cultures showed a stimulatory effect from topical application of peptides.
There are four types of peptides.
1. Signal Peptides
2. Neurotransmitter-inhibitor Peptides
3. Enzyme Inhibitor Peptides
4. Carrier Peptides
Peptides have been proven to be more effective than the gold standard prescription Vitamin A in the treatment of photoageing.
There are 300 000 pores on the face. During childhood the pores are nearly invisible because the sebaceous glands aren't active.
Oilier skins will naturally have lager pores due to the output of sebum. But the main cause is the cutaneous sagging with age (loss of firmness and elasticity). The diameter of pores is multiplied by 2 between the age of 25 and 50. Visible pores first appear in the T-zone and then on the sides of the nose and cheeks.
Milk Repair and Reactive Skin Cream are our best products to target pore sagging related to ageing. For oily skins we recommend Plant Harmonising Serum and Reactive Skin Serum.
Breakouts from allergies can show up within a day or two. It will not take months to form like normal acne.
If you think your breakouts are related to allergies we recommend getting an allergy test by a trained professional.
There are many consumers that go to great lengths to avoid chemicals due to toxicity concerns, however there is a toxin that is far more dangerous and has far reaching effects.
This toxin is called STRESS.
I find one of the simplest pleasures for reducing stress is to give yourself a facial. Nothing relaxes you like a pampering mask. It makes you feel better about yourself and raises your good feeling hormones.
Meditation is also magic.
Next time you feel stressed ask yourself is this worth getting upset about? I find too often people becoming upset over the most trivial thing. Their stress levels are triggered so easily.
So this weekend do your skin and genes a favour and relax!
If you are performing microneedling on yourself you can actually cause scarring.
Like many devices that where only sold under the supervision of licensed Aesthetician's, skin needling devices can now be purchased through Amazon and eBay.
Consumers are using devices that are 0.5mm and above which are meant to be only used under the guidance of a Doctor or professional Aesthetician. Many think there is no harm but this is far from the truth.
The danger is that you are poking holes in your skin and the products you are using afterwards contain ingredients that will generate an inflammatory response and possibly cause scarring.
Needling should always be under the guidance of an Aesthetician or Doctor. Your home use and product selection should also be under their guidance so you don't end up with granulomas and the lumpiness in your skin that will happen as a result of the granulomas forming.
You can't just use any product afterwards. It needs to meet criteria with ingredients. So the next time you think of performing home needling with a cheap device question if it is worth it.
Needling can get some fantastic results but it needs to be carefully monitored to minimise complications.
One of the concepts poorly understood is the fact that 90% of the basis of preventing scarring is hydration. This is the same principle that is used in surgical wounds. This is the reason alginate dressings are used. They minimise the risk of scarring.
The problem with most acne treatments is they strip the skin and dehydrate it, which means lesions take much longer to heal. This is why our protocol focuses on hydration. Wounds heal better in a moist environment.
So the next time you go to dry out that pimple. Think if that's what you really want.
Katie Tilson is a fully qualified Beauty Therapist passionate about skin health and dedicated to ongoing training and education to ensure you receive superior skin treatments.